Citing Dior‘s 1947 New Look Bar jacket as principle inspiration for its Fall 16 couture collection, Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux, interim designers for the fashion house, chose the perfect note to exit on. If rumors are true then it’s Maria Grazia Chiuri of Valentino who is heading over to become the new artistic director of Dior. As for now, if this is in fact the duo’s last collection as interim head designers, what a way to go.
The collection was functional couture, less grand madame, more relaxed and loose fitting silhouettes. I couldn’t help but think of Coco Chanel and her refusal to conform to her contemporary standards of form over function corsetry, driving forward her vision of beautiful clothing that allowed women to breathe, to function, to play. Here, in Dior, the atmosphere was much the same, in black and white with pops of gold in plays of structure-less and voluminous movement.
The collection itself can be compared to an Edouard Manet painting. When you see the looks, standing back all together, they look somewhat formless and relaxed. Ready to where – certainly not couture at first glance.
But then, as you look closer, you see all of the incredible details, and you realize this is a masterpiece of tailoring, hidden in plain sight. A trompe l’oeil. There is pleating, paneling, tucking, ruching, trapezing (now I’m just making up verbs) in deceptively simple appearing garments.
Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux should take a bow. Oh, and I’m totally calling dibs on the white pseudo-corset dress with plisse skirt and pockets. Pockets!