With a Madison Avenue store set to open in 2017, it was New York as Elie Saab‘s muse for his Fall 16 Couture collection, which was chock full of sheer Saab staples, but a few new surprises as well.

Elie Saab - Photo credit-Kim Weston Arnold-Indigital.tv - The Luxe Lookbook2
Elie Saab – Photo credit-Kim Weston Arnold-Indigital.tv

The first gowns had a direct inspiration with the skyline motif embroidered into Saab‘s signature sheer gowns – mostly sheer with high slits, low necklines and generally lots of skin. Saab taps into something with almost every gown he creates – women are sensual beings without wanting to be made into sexual objects. The difference he captures and balances perfectly almost every time. As a male designer, that’s pretty impressive.

He also did vintage-inspired plunge dresses in dark velvet with colorful embroidered flowers and birds – a total departure from Saab‘s signature monochromatic shimmery sheer gowns.

But the part of Saab‘s runway show that probably won over the most cold hearted of fashion mavens was the mommy-and-me gowns, when the most adorable little girls got to walk the runway and show off his tiny designs.

I think it’s safe to say that Elie decided to push the boundary a bit beyond his famous shimmer gown…and I love the artistry in each of these. His aesthetic was dark, dreamy, daring, and surely dramatic.
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Judith Ripka

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