How do you take Imperial Russian court dress from the early 20th century and give them the David Koma modernist and sexy edge? On paper, it sounds…perplexing. But completely intriguing, because if anybody can take a concept that is romantic, embellished, and formal, yet make them sharply crisp and sexy at the same time, it’s Koma.

David Koma RTW Spring 2017
David Koma RTW Spring 2017 – Photo by Giovanni Giannoni – WWD

And adding new plays with volume to his usual fare of sharp and sexy, this new evolution of his design is really working. The show started with an off the shoulder top with ballooning sleeves along with a row of 5 Fabergé inspired diamond shaped embellishments at the top. Then the mini skirt was covered in the same embellishments. It was definitely a statement to the evolution of Koma‘s signature looks, and it worked.

David Koma RTW Spring 2017
David Koma RTW Spring 2017 – Photo by Giovanni Giannoni – WWD

From there, we saw he didn’t stray too far away from why we love him – the short and tight, but with artistry to it for the fashion forward with a little sex appeal. There was a spectrum of girly to tomboy, via slip dresses, shortened peplum concepts, and the more athletic dresses with mesh variations.

There was a fantastic black cold shoulder jumpsuit with double spaghetti straps and over-length structured sleeves and cropped pants, something I can imagine will be a staple in many closets. And I can’t seem to take my eyes off of the black and white strapless drop waist dress with a vertical chain link print.

Giovanni Giannoni-WWD

Giovanni Giannoni-WWD

Military toggle and button embellishments weaved their way through some of the looks as well as variations of the Fabergé lattice piping, and it is how Koma edited the use of these elements that made his minimalist-leaning aesthetic so powerful.

Giovanni Giannoni – WWD

Giovanni Giannoni-WWD

Giovanni Giannoni-WWD

This is definitely my favorite Koma collection so far.

 

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