Consider this a momentous occasion – the first men’s runway review on The Luxe Lookbook. And what better design house to start with than Givenchy, whose creative director Riccardo Tisci included some gorgeous couture gowns alongside the menswear.
Tisci is known for having a dark side – sometimes melancholic, sometimes rock and roll attitude – often labeled as a goth or punk designer. But not in this collection. The designer told Vogue “For nine years as a designer, I did darkness. I’ve just come out of that.” Instead, we see a lighter, more positive approach in his latest collection – what he terms looking “west at America, through the eyes of a child.”
Inspired by good old Americana – stars, stripes, totem poles, and Victorian women in the West, the resulting looks delved into graphics, proportions, suiting, and streetwear. Silhouettes were moderate with layers of overalls, striped shirts, or tunics hanging low under graphic or striped sweaters. Toggles and buttons were oversized on pea coats and suit jackets. Ties were deconstructed.
For the women’s couture looks, Tisci created several prairie doll looks in Victorian-inspired necklines and patterns, but bodycon silhouettes that hem at the ankle. Intricate in detail, the dresses included trends like the cold shoulder, a sheer capelet, puffed statement sleeves, ruffles, and lace.
The dresses evolved into black fringe numbers, nodding to Native American culture of the historic west. An intermezzo moment between Victorian and Native American came in a fusion of sorts worn by Bella Hadid in a scallop-fringed halterneck gown. Then came the full fledged fringe moments like a fringe suede jacket with leather stitching, oversized buttons and a mandarin collar that I am absolutely coveting. A sheer panel look creates faux striping that ends with a feathered hem cape that is incredibly romantic. And I’m pretty much in love with the disc dress. Did I mention the bodycon fringe number created from only fringe, top to button, the fringe angling over every curve from vertical to horizonal, back to vertical with a long hem, creating great movement? Yes, yes, yes.
The finale look is a fabulous feathered pink number reminiscent of the old west saloon girls. A delicate sheer white lace mermaid silhouette is embellished with soft blush floral appliques as well as feathers cascading from the bust toward both shoulders as well as a waterfall effect of feathers toward the bottom hem. So feminine, so fun, definitely a major change for Tisci.