It was a display of fireworks on Zuhair Murad‘s Spring 2017 couture runway – the designer taking literal inspiration from the advanced pyrotechnic displays of Japan. The concept was realized through a few playsuits and jumpsuits, but mostly gowns of eye-popping color.Murad started the show with a black metallic lace mini dress embroidered with gold pops of fireworks, and a vertical sheer ruffle framing the sleeves and neckline. It was followed by a a black column framed by a ballet train, fully ablaze with white fireworks. The effect was felt, this was going to be a full show.
From there, it was a review of colors – red, pink, purple, blue, green – in full blast saturation. Murad took a few notes from the 80’s, like oversized bows, big shoulders, a severe cut sweetheart neckline, the one-shoulder flutter sleeve, and crazy wide A-line action happening with a mini dress. Some of these hit love notes, while some just fell flat. The 80’s have always been over the top, and sometimes it’s overdone. The bows were getting a bit out of hand, and the major sheen + flair + bows + ruffles….it got to be a lot at times.
On trend for this couture season, the ballgown weaved throughout this collection with quite a few high slits and deep necklines. But interestingly, there were a few surprises, like the high-low hems of a few gowns, including one that was cut so short, we literally saw the fine china AND the booty. I mean, only a great walk can do that, so it’s really a testament to the model as much as it is a gaffe to the designer.
Personal favorites include the petal top plunge starry night gown, the cobalt blue center-wrapped ballgown, and the white high-slit dress with a sheer panel bodice.
The show closed with a dramatic bridal ballgown with a plunge neck and four large pleats, embroidered and beaded in pops of silver and ivory. A stunning show finale.