Simple is not the word to ever define a Valentino collection, but it certainly seemed to reflect the shift in perspective compared to collections past. Debuting his first solo couture collection without Maria Grazia Chiuri by his side, Pierpaolo Piccioli showed a surprising, but ever exquisite compilation inspired by dreamscapes.
No surprise, this dream was realized in the aesthetic of the ancient Greek goddess, as the philosophy and mythology of the Greeks inspired the concept. Indeed, Piccioli noted that the Greek philosophers and writers of mythology were the ones of responsible in naming human feelings, which in turn, inspires our dreaming.
Sidenote: Did I mention my adoration for the cerebral challenge of his concepts? He isn’t ever just inspired to do a sexy plunging neckline because it will sell, or by a pop culture reference because it’s easy. He’s smart, refined, talented, and he pushes himself. And the combination of those four elements results in the most stunning Valentino creations that actually are not only gorgeous wearable clothes, but actually have contextual, artistic meaning. They will belong in a collection somewhere. They will have history and meaning. You heard it here.
The goddess gowns breezing down the runway were statuesque in long flowing pleats of silk, sheer chiffon tunics were delicately embroidered and encrusted with beading, all creating an ethereal vibe in motion.
The wide leg pants moved beautifully, and I found those to be surprisingly just as fun to watch as some of the gowns. Just as intriguing were some of the constructivist plays in necklines – some of the surrealist dream sequences surely, where the dress comes up in a high arc, or is expertly rolled into a sweetheart.
Personal favorites include this multifaceted matte mauve-white-grey cropped petal fringe (trend alert!) in a low criss-cross neck gown, the high-neck soft peach dress with silver sequin stripes on the bodice, the dreamy off-the-shoulder white pleat number, the rose dress, and the finale dress – a sheer plunge neck encrusted from head to toe in beading and covered from neck to floor in a sheer cape. Absolutely gorgeous and thoughtful, all of them.