Drawing inspiration from Imperial China, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s Fall17 Marchesa collection was opulent, colorful, and full of sumptuous textures like detailed embroidery, sleek pulled and ruched satin, feather embellishments, and this season it was all about the tassel and fringe. And the color palette was a wild array of rainbow tones, sometimes all in one look.

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD

The Marchesa house style was clearly seen in a few looks, like the feathered off-the-shoulder black velvet midi dress, the midnight blue plunge neck shimmer gown, a soft blue sheer plunge gown with crystal appliques, feathers, and orange poppies, and the gorgeous sheer plum one-shoulder ruched gown with green and pink appliques under the fabric (a trend I am loving on the runway this season) that makes it appear almost gesso.

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD

The looks more overtly inspired by Imperial China had a vintage glam feel, with soft, flowing silk skirting, puff feather embellishments, soft florals, intricate and colorful embroidery, and heavy fringe. The tassel fringe looks are hit and miss. Some of them are stunning, especially the first look which has rainbow fringe literally falling as a skirt from the waist to the floor. Yet other looks just don’t work out as well, like the nude pencil dress with burgundy florals and a row of fringe across the bust and sleeves that ends up making the model look like a lampshade. Tres not chic. But this is the exception. Most of these looks are absolute successes and we’ll surely be seeing some of them on future red carpets.

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD


Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Personal favorites include the gown with a black lace plunge neckline, with a gathered tulle floral skirt with reverse tiers (LOVE!), The strapless nude and black gown with velvet top and great ruffle movement around the skirt slit, the black and nude sheer gown with silver florals, and those two amazing red carpet ball gowns.

Umberto Fratini-WWD

Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD
Umberto Fratini-WWD

 

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FORWARD by elyse walker

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3 Comments

    • luxelookbook Reply

      Yes! I think out of all of them, that’s my favorite too! Love Marchesa.

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