Linked to a strong sense of national pride, the chokha has been a symbol of Georgian cultural heritage since the 19th century. As a native Georgian, David Koma chose this garment – a wool jacket with a high neck and bandoliers on both sides of the chest – as the starting point of his Fall 17 collection. And the inspiration continued through the Kartuli, a ritualistic dance between man and woman, romantic and chivalrous in elegant movements.
These inspirations were executed into folk meets modern edge looks, with quilted leather, parkas, and fur-embellished wool coating over diagonal hemmed mini dresses and skirts with Koma signature geometric cutouts or deep V’s. All had a bit of a militaristic feel with black and olive drab as the main colors, and utility in leather, bandolier details, and metallic chain mail armor.
The final looks amped up toward evening, with shimmering rows of rectangle crystal beads over sheer tops, black mini skirts, and a longline vest. Only a designer skilled enough as Koma could take a military-esque motif (by proxy) and not only sensualize it, but sophisticate it as well. For the most part, he played the balance just right.