There are rumors abound that Donatella Versace could be stepping down…or stepping back from her design label, and having good friend Riccardo Tisci, who just left Givenchy after designing his last dress at the label for Emma Stone for the Oscars. We don’t know what this rumored partnership will look like, but If this was Donatella Versace’s last collection, she is going out with a bang.
Known for designing for the bad girl, the confident powerhouse, the sometimes eccentric, this season Versace is for the diverse, the strong, the loyal, the courageous. Or at least that’s what she wants to inspire us to be. Absolutely a political collection – the trend du jour considering the overpowering clime permeating all cultural elements right now, Donatella apparently wanted to project inspirations in her final bow. But these aren’t just mottos sewn onto a t-shirt.
The show began with a round shouldered coat mini dress over a sheer slip boldly embroidered with “Equality”. From there, it was a parade of strong tailoring, pencil skirts, suits, overcoats – several with a rich ombre effect. Of course, there were a few LBD’s, but the craftwork was stepped up, the random meaningless embellishments I often give the side eye to are refreshingly missing. These are so good.
The show slowly morphs into haute sportswear and athluxury with a fantastic ski jacket piped and lined in blue sherpa, a navy sheepskin parka with vibrant orange shearling over a similar hued mini; a few sporty tennis style dresses, sweaters and knits are encrusted with glimmering beads to create a shower and ombre effect as well as lattice; black surf top with “Loyalty – Love – Unity” on the arms and chest, with blue and black floral appliqués over the most scrumptious sheer navy godet skirt over an ombre orange slip skirt. Love. Seriously love.
The final looks move to evening, where metallic slip dresses slinked down the runway in chartreuse, and a rusty orange. These were good, but it was the slip dresses in the similar motif as the sportier looks that drew my attention. A slip dress hemmed in black with the same godot skirting slowly snuck an ombre up toward a cerulean bodice with a v-panel with the same piping as the pleats below. The arms and shoulders are covered in a black sheer top. So. freaking. gorgeous.
And subtle, which is something that Donatella has just recently mastered. We then see a full midi pencil dress made out of this piping, with each piece sculpted around the body into symmetrical designs, all embellished with hue-popping floral appliqués. The coating was all just absolute luxe, with full fur and the same ombre and beading techniques that made them look like dreamy dresses, rather than coats to brace yourself in for bad weather.
Donatella nailed it with this collection.