One thing is for sure, when other fashion houses are creating across-the-board trends, Karl Lagerfeld and the house of Chanel are bucking them. In a sort of rebellious stance, Lagerfeld makes one thing perfectly clear in his latest collection – the house codes remain. No athleisure. No streetwear. No dressed down daywear. The code is luxury in Coco’s ideals, and luxury it shall appear. But where Chanel will go is all out over-the-top in the thematic concept of the season. And this time, it was space travel.
Again in the Grand Palais, the show revolved around a giant rocket, that was literally launched at the end of the show. Because, Chanel. Perhaps another fashion musing on escapism through space travel and the idea of starting over fresh. Poignant as always, Mr. Lagerfeld. The clothes were signature house tweed in astronaut uniform colors of white, gray and silver with black as well as deep hues of red, purple, and navy, representing the planetary surfaces.
There were a couple of fur and silver mylar metal foil combos that call to mind the thermal space blanket. Dresses had high, wide round collars, as if the round bubble space helmet was intended to latch into them. Several houndstooth looks popped in, with a cropped at the ankle jumpsuit, a longline coat, and skirt suits. Then came the actual rendition of space blankets – in short quilted capes with a hologram finish. Boots were low-heeled and covered in sparkly sheaths, and the models wore head wraps that were quilted mylar and headbands covered in beads or crystals.
Major wow moment came with a paillette and sequin tuxedo jacket that looked like the most fashionable planetary model yet in history over a pair of black astronaut pants with a matte gold sheen. The final gowns arrived in shimmering black, embellished with feathers with sheer tulle skirts. By the time it was lift off, I was already dazzled. The rocket was just icing on the cake.
Chanel wasn’t the only fashion house to focus on intergalactic style. Nick Graham had Buzz Aldrin and Bill Nye the Science Guy walk his runway.