It was a dizzying display at times on the runway of Christian Dior‘s latest couture show by Maria Grazia Chiuri. She continued the discourse on the current feminine struggle, and feminism at large, with a color palette in black and white – apt timing for the #TimesUp movement. The source of her inspiration was surrealism artist Leonor Fini, who Christian Dior had once exhibited in the gallery he was involved with before he became a couturier.
So how did this translate into clothes? A troupe of gossamer cage dresses juxtaposed with sleek pantsuits with origami folded bar jackets and structured dresses. And of course, lots of surreal, hypnotic, dreamy dresses and coats in checker and swirl patterns. Understated met romantic – ever the ethos of Chiuri – in optical illusions covered in frothy sheers, feathers, or billowing coatdresses.
I’m a total fan of Chiuri – always have been. I can’t change my classicism leopard spots. Give me a modernized Audrey Hepburn any day. But I can’t help but wish that Chiuri had gone for the gusto with a few of these looks and really made it a bit avante garde, perhaps in nod to John Galliano. She does dreamy, and she does dreamy well. And the execution of surrealism was certainly on point here. But if she were ever to push well beyond the safety of her comfort zone, I would think this was her opportunity to do it. I was left wanting just a bit more.