Ok, so technically choreographer Pina Bausch said the quote ” Dance, dance…otherwise we are lost”. It was Maria Grazia Churi of Dior who riffed this phrase for her latest balletic collection that recalled for me one of my earliest reviews of one of her collections for this publication – the Valentino Fall 2016 RTW prima ballerina-inspired collection when she worked hand-in-hand with partner Pierpaolo Piccioli.
The runway was a ballet recital within a runway show, much like the rodeo in the Resort collection. And while the spectacle of a dance performance merged with millions of falling leaves into the mist of dramatic lighting, understated draped jersey looks slinked down the runway – almost lost in the presentation.
The minimalism gave way slowly to soft macramé – the netting and mesh layered over bodysuits in hushed tones.
Voluminous godet-pleated skirts came in all hem lengths, from a lustrous tiered nude tea-length skirt to a sheer black ankle-length dress with rainbow pleats. Yes to all of that.
Abstract floral prints were trending for the runway season via tie-dye. Ok, seriously. Where do the designers meet for this trend decision-making summit? I’m guessing the Four Season Paris. The CFDA? Anna Wintour’s basement? Just don’t go up the stairs. I digress. The tie-dye, like everything else in this collection is done with a delicate hand, with understated, sophisticated effect.
Smart jackets and vests made an appearance atop breezy pleat skirts, as well as a duet of ombre duster coats. The occasional relaxed fit cropped pants also made an appearance making one thing very clear: it’s all about the comfort this season. Not that Chiuri was ever a “pain is beauty” kind of girl.
Toward the end of the runway show, Dior marched willfully toward boho hippie, with tie-dye mandalas, harem pants, and multi-tiered dye techniques on maxi dresses, embellished with constellations of sequins.
The closers were sheer dip-dyed goddess numbers with hushed balletic grace.
I can’t say the voice of Maria Grazia Chiuri is as loud with this collection as it has been with recent others, but when you get close, the details are certainly beautiful. While some of the color palettes of the collection were a bit murky, it was the silhouettes, the movement, and the details that were the highlights of this runway.