Loewe opened day 4 of PFW with an easy collection centered around feeling light and real with cotton, linen and leather. Airy, laid back and simple, each look seemed dressed down, and comfy chic.\n\n

\n\nHussein Chalayan took his inspiration for this collection from Spain, Morocco and North Africa, with a delicate, artistic and often organic looks that are both calming and inspiring at once.\n\n\n\n \n\nThe Issey Miyake collection was themed around “sculpting with air” using their in-house 3D steam stretch technology. The results were technically innovative and visually interesting. The textures of the fabrics were voluminous yet seemed very light. Quite a unique collection.\n\n \n\nJulien David showed a graceful collection inspired by a prima ballerina. The looks had flow and movement while also very sporty, mixing unlikely fabrics in separates.\n\n \n\nDior, Dior, oooohhhh Dior. The collection was focused on redefining modernity by looking to the far past rather than modernizing the current era. “The challenge was to bring the attitude of contemporary reality to something very historical; bringing easiness to something that could be perceived as theatrical,” elaborated Simons. “It is the attitude that matters.” The results are, of course, impeccable. I love Dior’s simplicity of design, direct inspiration, and attention to detail.\n\n \n\nIsabel Marant’s collection was full of youthful, fun silhouettes, fringe, pleats and short, flirty skirts. I see a date night look or two in my future.\n\n \n\nUndercover showed a collection about the transition from innocence, but it also seemed perhaps a more direct retrospective of history and the arts. Prints that from afar seem like they belonged on French Provincial tapestries had been “reworked” to add modern elements like robots…but painted in the same style as the rest of the painting, so you had to search closely to know it was there. Then there were takes on the mid-19th century southern hoop skirts, ballet tutus, Quaker inspired fashion, edgy leather looks….it was quite a whirlwind of fashion styles from sweet to edgy, historical to modern.\n\n \n\nAnother designer playing on art, the Andrew Gn collection was centered around impressionism, particularly Claude Monet as well as traditional east Asian elements like obi-style layering, woodblock themed ocean swirl prints and cherry blossom appliques. Pairing these elements together made for an exciting, fresh collection of quite a few gorgeous looks.\n\n \n\nMuted tones, asymmetry and a play on apron looks embodied the Maison Martin Margiela collection. Checks and floral prints added texture and volume while sheer panels added flow and movement.\n\n \n\nA.F. Vandevorst showed a collection of dark tones and structure that made some of the looks feel closer to art than fashion. It seemed like a compilation of dramatic flair meeting industrial edge…and perhaps even a nod to a few nautical looks. No, it didn’t really make sense, but it kept me guessing and really, it was intriguing.\n\n

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