Stella McCartney opened PFW day 7 with denim and knitwear looks in flattering, slouchy, flapper style silhouettes. The color palette was mostly muted, yet sophisticated with creams, white and navy with a few denim-friendly plaid and western paisley prints. Cut outs, asymmetrical hemlines, and just a few sexy looks added some pop to an otherwise demure collection.
The Sacai collection was rooted in military-style silhouettes, adding a mashup of any and every style and reference you can possibly imagine. It was loud, busy and quite confusing at times, but overall it worked. Mesh and lace were mixed with asymmetrical hems, peplums, fur, sheer panels, stripes, plaids, prints, everything.
The Leonard collection showed fabulous print work on a variety of mediums including silks and even denim. The effect was beautiful – a delicate motif of watercolor and impressionistic style prints that were layered, gathered and cut perfectly.
Giambattista Valli showed a gorgeous collection of reinvented mod styles, with fringe, feathered scales, color blocking, appliques, and fabulous print variations. Valli is on a roll.
Emanual Ungaro opened with billowing, simple silk gowns of blue, red and yellow that flowed down the runway. The collection then transitioned to print work coupled with silks, then on to lace, plaids and color block looks. The collection was colorful, vibrant and unexpected.
A personal favorite designer, Elie Saab showed yet another fabulously feminine collection that did not disappoint. The glamorous under the sea theme included marine blues, corals, greens, blacks and whites. Each garment was true to Elie Saab form – flowy, feminine and sophisticated. There were several intensely-hued ombre gowns that were amazing. Saab also added a sporty element with striping on the collars and hemlines of a few looks, and the result was low-key, laid back fabulous.
Veronique Branquinho showed a collection themed around “the beauty of unfinished things”, showing looks that abruptly transitioned or appeared to be a work in progress. Skirts were gathered, appearing to be held together by a rope while tops appeared to have incomplete sleeves. While the editor in me cringes, there is something refreshing and aesthetically pleasing about this collection.
The Sonia Rykiel collection was young, fresh and sexy with micro shorts, crop tops and a few sheer looks. I absolutely loved the dressed down Chanel jacket with the signature Rykiel horizontal stripes in the center. Overall, the collection was another 70’s-inspired compilation of silhouettes, with details of fringe, stripes, olive drab colors, denim, and even a few faux furs.