Consider me shocked when I saw Sarah Burton’s latest creations for the Alexander McQueen S/S16 RTW collection. I was expecting art over function, with over-the-top styling, as well as crazy corsets and headdresses. But this? This collection is different. Burton explained, “I wanted it to be believable, touchable, soft.”
Tender femininity seems to contrast with the label’s heritage, but here they were in girlish, beautiful dresses inspired by 17th century Huguenot Protestant silk weavers who fled French religious persecution and settled in Spitalfields, in London’s East End. Quite the story, and the looks were by no means simple. Tiered ruffles, florals and contrasting prints, the off-the-shoulder trend, shredded lace, asymmetrical hems, and complex embroidery all created intricate detailing over slightly relaxed, smartly tailored silhouettes.
I am usually not a fan of overworked denim, but the continuous shred down the front of cropped jeans with an added ombre effect was attractive – even more so with the all-embroidered floral top with cutouts. This was perhaps one of the more casual looks of the collection. Another standout piece of the collection was the red and cream officer jacket, fastened across the waist with antique silver buttons. For the rest of the collection, it was a beautiful juxtaposition between girlish femininity and edgy sensuality.