Miuccia Prada dedicated the Prada Fall 2016 RTW collection to all of the experiential pieces of womanhood through history. “We need to understand who we are now….Maybe it’s useful to look back to the different characteristic moments, difficulties, love, no love, pain, happiness, different kinds of women: sexy, boring, traveler. So this was the main concept.”The resulting collection was a patchwork of layered elements from feminine fashion. It was like a quilt created from the loving female elders to showcase the familial history of what has made the youngest inheriting generation what it is today. At first, it is a jarring combination of pieces that looks jumbled and confusing. But as each look comes down the runway, the puzzle starts becoming clear, and it’s thought provoking.
Impeccably tailored coats were a staple in the collection, covered at the waist with lace up corsets. Nurse caps and argyle stockings added a vintage war time vibe to the military style olive drab masculine coats as well as the more classic feminine silhouettes like a scoop neck A-line and pencil skirts.
The collection was a variety show of women’s wear of decades past. Brocades, leathers, heavy wools, crepe, and furs all create a juxtaposition of textures to enhance the idea of the layered history. Bold graphic prints contrasted with some of the more demure silhouettes, creating a well crafted balance between sweet and powerful. The capes are incredibly chic, and it’s nice to see the trend showing a strong variety of textures and styles. I also loved the exaggerated drape shoulder, adding a nod to the princess gown phase every woman goes through…usually one of the first ideas of feminine fashion we experience as little girls.
Not a simple collection, but once you start to pull away at the layers, and you start to make connections, it becomes clear that Miuccia created a stellar work of art.