In his sartorial standard of more is more, Alessandro Michele presented his Fall 17 Gucci collection of plenty, and his vision is certainly becoming clear. His role in making a niche for the chic geek is wide, with references to a variety of heady subjects like travel in the far East, heavy in vintage, flower bombs, underlying rocker references, even a nod to Chanel.
The looks were both mens and womens, and were about as androgynous as it could get. In many cases, male and female models could have traded clothes, and I wouldn’t have noticed. The styling of the models played this effect up, and the long tousled hair and oversized or embellished glasses felt sometimes 70’s/80’s, sometimes rocker, sometimes hippie boho.
Rather than making or chasing trends, Michele is settling the house of Gucci in with his clear aesthetic. Evolution can only be seen through technique, details, and experimentation like the men’s high-neck jumpsuit with a completely open chest and midriff. A hole that with shirting showing through may not be so provocative, but definitely gets some eye pops with only bare skin showing through. And the peasant dress of every sumptuous texture I can fathom (think Bangarang, Peter) with green velvet sleeves, a rainbow of sequin zigzag striping at the hem, and a large red glower applique at the waist. Both jarring and magniqué side by side.
So I’ve been on the fence about Gucci‘s past collections. But now I think I’m starting to see Michele’s vision, and I think I love what I’m seeing. It’s definitely not for everybody. And put on a runway show, many will find it hard to pull away the art from the individual pieces and how wearable those will be. But I get it now. And I think I like it.