Drawing inspiration from the stern faced ladies of Renaissance portraits, Altuzarra‘s latest collection was a study in rich fabrics, sensual silhouettes, formal details – all with an overt nod to the best of 15th century style. And while there was definitely the Altuzarra feminine sensuality underlying much of the collection, unlike last season’s runway, this time it was all in the cut rather than the reveal.
The runway held a wide array of looks in velvet, wool, jacquards, with barely tempered techniques in quilting, embroideries, and tailoring. Shoulders were rounded, waists were cinched with wide laced corset belts, and collars were often fur clad. But in no way were these demure, romantic looks.
What I absolutely love about this collection is how powerful and confident the looks were. Taking the idea of the Renaissance woman and turning her into a cunning, edgy power player of today. Smart pencil dresses in heavy constructions met with knee length combat boots. And to the extreme of badassery in this collection, leather biker pants were paired with blazers or knit sweaters and combat boots. Of course, almost all of the lengths were midi, for easier conquering of the world on any given Tuesday.
Toward the end of the show came the evening looks – several velvet moments about as flowy and plunging as the runway got, embellished in bows, which were followed by a trio of loose fitting column dresses embellished with swirling sequin florals, and edged in pearls.
I pretty much want to live in this collection.