Viva la revolución. Tadashi Shoji‘s Fall 17 show was inspired by the youth revolutions of the late 60’s and 70’s, as the designer noted, “the time to express your true self is now.” Based on my Facebook feed, the world agrees with you.

Edward James-Indigital

So how did the clothes translate from this vintage-inspired revolutionary concept? Well, they definitely read louder than Shoji‘s usual collections. He opted for heavier fabrics, which in combination with the patterns he chose ended up occasionally looking like drapery and upholstery…not quite the statement you want to make with your outfit.

Some of the looks went another direction, fully into medieval-inspired garments, like the black cape outlined in gold leaf, a gorgeous white-silver high-neck gown with velvet outlined in flowers, and the red velvet gown with gold trim – the most modern feature being the plunge V-neck. Confusing if it’s a revolution. This must be the woman that wants her revolt voice to read Dark Ages…

High notes included Shoji‘s use of draping, like in the final set of shimmer lamé gowns, with a wine color one-sleeve gown with the opposite arm draped in a low off-the-shoulder faux sleeve, and the rose gold gown with draped neckline and draped cold shoulders. The chiffon looks were a breath of fresh air, wafting lightly down the runway with muted rose prints and black lace details.

With such a call for revolution and having the feminine voices heard, there was a build up of anticipation, that overall was met with disorientation and confusion. Is this really Shoji hears the feminine voice? It’s an odd tone to be sure – a hit and miss collection – surely one in which everyone will find something they love. But unfortunately probably something they also hate, which is not good for business.


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