French singer-songwriter Françoise Hardy was the muse for Zuhair Murad‘s latest collection, giving the designer major 1960’s meditative mod vibe to work with. And this is definitely an evolution for Murad, who typically makes an evening dominant collection, but now seems to throw a heavier hand toward scrumptious daywear that his wide group of followers will surely be excited to get their hands on.
The vintage silhouettes were often by way of the mini skirt in tweed, plaid, black with these fantastic floral embroidery appliqués on each side. Blouses were sheer with long sleeves – a floral appliqué ribbon wraps around the wrist creating a peasant cuff. Ruffle stripes provide additional embellishments at varying lengths of the arm. And the same appliqué ribbon stretches down the length of each side of the torso, creating panels that showcase larger florals in an almost gesso finish. So gorgeous.
Dresses are floaty and feminine, with sheer numbers worked intricately with lace and embroidery to create the most intense and exciting effects. The yellow mini dress has a lace skirt covered in wavy strips of fabric that are heavily embroidered to create a gladiator skirt effect. It has clean sheer neckline and sleeves that are stitched with grommet-like circles. Clearly, a piece that if you keep staring, you find more cheeky elements that make you understand his genius…it’s pretty much everything I never knew I always wanted in a dress. Gimme gimme gimme. A zip front skater dress in white is covered at the skirt with black floral embroidery, creating a gorgeous lace effect. A viridian printed chiffon with pops of white and blush florals nods to the antique charm of Parisian interiors, separated into panels by sheer white pleats in maxi, midi, and mini options. Did I mention I want these too?
Murad didn’t skimp on the coating, which was definitely a covet-worthy variety. There were a couple of opulent black and white fur moments, a floral embroidered cape, a soft rose coat with fur panels, the gesso floral embroideries at the button line, and the same floral embroidery with a little pop of greenery at the cuff tab. But my favorite has to be the floral embroidery/lace effect double breasted dress coat, which is cut out into panels separated by strips of matte black silk. Yaaasssss.
The final evening looks were definitely tempered for Murad. Just a few looks, and not over the top major glamour that he is widely known for. A black jumpsuit had a moderately high waist with a lace top, beaded and embroidered with opaque cutout florals and swirls. A black and blue floral maxi was embellished with black lace ruffles. A purple gown version of that yellow dress I was in love with pops with shimmery beadwork. A similar style black panel skirt gown is intricately stitched, ruffled and beaded with linear designs to follow the panels and creates a horizontal belt along the bodice. So flattering. The final gown is a black sheer column with blue floral pieces, and feathers climbing up the hem. Absolutely gorgeous.
While I love Zuhair Murad‘s major wow moment gowns, I really enjoyed his application of intricate handwork on everyday looks. I hope this transition is successful, because the everyday needs a bit more love, and he’s definitely giving it.