In their more accessible label, Marchesa Notte, Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman created an extension of their main collection, themed on Imperial China this season.

The focus was opulent Chinoiserie seen through romantic and intricate embroideries, floral applications providing pops of color, detailed lace work, and a bevy of ruffled tiers.

Silhouettes were often off-the-shoulder with multi-straps adding a little sex appeal and texture in on-trend velvet. I thought this worked especially well in a black midi pencil corset dress, embellished with teal and tan feather florals. Romantic floral vines with butterflies stretched into beautiful striping across two looks including a cold shoulder with a lace top, sheer skirt and ruffle sleeves, and a deep plunge 3-tiered gown. And perfection came with the velvet straps high on the décolletage with flat bows taking up almost their full length.


Major standouts were the halter gowns as studies in floral applications. A smoky blue version had shimmery embroidered leaves under 3D pops of flowers in pinks, purples, blues and white. The neckline of the halter had a large ombre-water color flower creating a gorgeous choker effect. Another version was more muted as a dusty rose chiffon halter with floral bead appliqués on the bodice with a matte finish that almost look like candy. The color palette of the florals takes a vintage vibe in saccharine soft orange, pink, lavender, and mint. The skirting has short chiffon tiers, creating a fun movement and just a hint of volume.

The Marchesa dynamic duo seems to be stepping up their game on the Marchesa Notte collection this season. It’s always been good – phenomenally better than most off the rack offerings in similar price points. But this collection definitely ramped up the sublime details of many of the pieces.

 

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