Maria Grazia Chiuri is full of surprises. As ethereal as was her point of view with partner Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, and again for her recent Dior collections, I did not see some of these looks from her. Proving her versatility and talent in swinging a wide pendulum, Chiuri focused Dior‘s Fall 2017 collection on streetwear, in a continuation of feminist perspective with a militant Second-wave 70’s rebel meets Rosie the Riveter kind of vibe.
In a study of blue, Chiuri sent out 70 looks ranging between overalls, utility jumpsuits and carpenter pants on one end, and a series of dreamy, romantic gowns on the other – all worn with black berets. Many of the utility inspired street looks were in a soft, movable denim cut in relaxed silhouettes. Pants were cropped or cuffed, midi skirts were pleated over combat boots, shoulders were rounded with sailor necklines or hoodies, and bags were slung with guitar straps across shoulders.
Eventually, the looks evolved to Dior‘s usual client – the seeker of delicate and pretty. Continuing her focus of the latest couture collection, Chiuri showed gorgeous belted bustier gowns, this time with pleat skirts, one with a million sequins creating a starlight ombre effect, as well as velvet. Embroideries in astrology also made a return, this time in twinkling and metallic finishes.
And in between those extremes were a bevy of polished and classic coating and day dresses, and skirts. In interviews, Chiuri noted that she wanted to create a collection aimed at allowing women the variety to pick their own uniform. A great message, since there is no single mold of what a strong woman should look like.