Don’t get me wrong. I might review fashion, but I am far from a fashion elitist. I am open to a wide range of motifs and schools of thought, but this train…I just can’t jump aboard. So if you’ve lost me as a potential fan in trying to objectively evaluate it, and I come away saying no…then it. is. bad.
Yes, the club atmosphere Vaccarello creates in his shows is fun and heart pumping…but if you don’t LOVE the fashion, what’s the point of wearing it? Even more, what’s the point of spending your cash on it? And Anthony, those of us who lived as females during the 80’s (I was a kid, but still), we now know that we looked bad. We had an entire decade of unfortunate fashion moments. We laugh at them, but we don’t want to relive them. Not like this.
So let me break down where this collection hit high, where it hit low. Because it’s not all record-scratch jarring. There were also quite a few great looks in there, to give him credit.
There were shearling lined bolero leather jackets and a sleek black cropped jacket with a wavy zipper line that read Fendi Resort 17. Some of the sleeve and neckline sculptural embellishments were over the top crazy, but when pared down to “I can see over the fabric blocking my face” level, they were actually good looks. Of course, there are no basic leather jackets in Saint Laurent, but even the YSL version of basic still looks good. That’s one thing the label has always been good at. And he killed it with the cropped officer’s coat. Absolutely in love with that piece.
There were several simple separate looks with tops in knit or lace with exaggerated peasant sleeves tied at the elbow that were. Yes! There was a fantastic moment with a sheer blouse with satin striping down each side over a mini skirt hemmed in black mink. The well-edited evening looks with lots of sparkle definitely read well, like the slinky plunge mini dress covered in rhinestones and the matching blouse over a pair of black cigarette pants. A high-neck, long-sleeve velvet number had a high slit lined with two rows of the rhinestones. So gorgeous.
That hella sexy one-shoulder velvet gown with a high slit….with a random brown piece of leather thrown on the shoulder like that big giant bow we all wanted on our dresses that we thought looked so cool in 1987. No, it didn’t. And it doesn’t. And it kinda ruined that dress for me. That moment you realize only one of your shoulders gets the luxury feeling of shearling…but the plus side of having that giant opening of sculptural shearling reaching up past your head is that you can hold things in it like a pocket…put your phone in there. Maybe some candy for later. Or you could adopt a flying squirrel and that could be it’s cozy home… Otherwise, the form over function just kills me on this one. There was a skirt suit with strong boxed shoulders that had a sheer ruffled tutu on top of the skirt that just kind of trails off to the side and back. I feel like that dress represents my experience with this overall collection. Yes, ok, yes, nooooooooo.
Almost all of the one-shouldered dresses with over-the-top embellishments were in the noooooooo category. Except for the last one. That dress can stay. The rest need to DIAF with the rest of our bad 80’s fashion memories. And when the shoulders start to look as crazy as Lady Gaga’s performance costumes, are people going to want to look like that? Even if you bedazzle it, I’ll still look like a (faaaabulooouuus) linebacker in that dress.