It wasn’t the Trevi Fountain, but the latest Fendi couture show was still a fantasy. The curtain rose on a hand painted woodland scene, with Claude Debussy’s “Prelude to the Afternoon of a Faun” echoing softly in the air. In this balletic fairy tale atmosphere, Karl Lagerfeld summoned his enchanting creations of flora and fauna in haute fourrure.

Lush textures and rich colors arrived in a vision of imaginative flowers, covering sheer and lace dresses, and cocoon shaped capes. Feathers appeared in ombre effect on a column gown over the most incredible lace work, creating a triple tiered high neck, and a honeycomb effect. Another fauna moment included a stunning new technique – the hand painted/gilded shaved fur of a wrap coat with flap wings created a beautiful antiqued look. The gold absolutely popped against the dark colors. An egg-shaped cape was jaw-dropping, with 10,000 paillettes of popping intermixed hues bound to go viral.

A vibrant coral and blue poppy wrap skirt is sumptuously soft, and the raspberry poms added to it as well as the cornflower cape just add to the effect. And I want the blue scallop bag now. Actually in whatever colors they have. Perhaps not as technically difficult, but certainly worthy of a nod, their watercolor moments are sure to gain a following. In particular, the blue poppy field dress with yellow and purple clouded skies with a cape that meets at the neckline with vivid blue poppy flowers. Gorgeous. There were quite a few vibrant multi-colored looks on the runway that Fendi has a bit of a cult following for the likes of.


But variety is the spice of life, and sheer and nude have been the trend for a bit now. Bella Hadid was wearing one of these looks that she’s personally known to wear – a stunning blue shaved mink sheer number. A bit of a surprise came by way of a white jumpsuit with tight-knit web lace with a 60’s style duster overlay. Totally didn’t see that coming from Fendi, but it speaks to the wide vision and technical lens of the house. Lace was actually a highlight of this collection, with a few looks showing varied sheer lacework techniques, including an elegant pink column in lace florals, with rose appliqués and black velvet bows, and a mesh lattice neckline outlined in piping. Love this combination of traditional and modern. Kendall Jenner wore a black sheer caped number with shaved florals with an Art Nouveau style boat neck, which had an understated elegance to it that was definitely enticing.

The finale dress was a bridal gown, with an extension of the theme we’ve seen with a few of the rest of the looks – embroidering together a few different motifs. With this one, there was lattice on a white shawl over a mermaid skirt covered in tiny florals and tufts of fur, with a floral belt at a high waist. White daisies cover a sheer bodice, leading up to a bare decolletage before a sheer floral lace choker pulls the shawl together with the rest of the look. Quite the collection!

Giovanni Giannoni – WWD


Violeta by MANGO New Collection


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