Karl Lagerfeld loves a good set. And after taking us to a casino, creating Chanel Airlines, and launching us into space, Lagerfeld has now built a replica of the famed romantic Eiffel Tower in the Grand Palais of Paris. The timing of the election of President Macron an uncanny but welcome coincidence, with Lagerfeld boasting pride in France.
And in this light, it was structure and classic elegance that inspired the focal point of the latest Chanel collection. In a dark palette of heavy tweeds, a parade of looks proceeded sculpted silhouettes with rounded shoulders and curvy hips in mostly daywear in knee and midi lengths of relative minimalism as far as tweed is concerned.
A midi leg jumpsuit is paired with a relaxed jacket, of course all tweed – the construction fitting like second skin. A bit of a surprise comes by way of a black leather mini that hugs the curves with a tweed skirt panel, and matching tweed jacket. A curvaceously structured knee-length skirt is paired with a cropped 3/4 length sleeve jacket over crisp bishop sleeve shirting. All nod to the classicism of the house codes, but just a nod before venturing off in leather and feather.
The only embellishment to grace the collection were plumages of sumptuous feathers, shaped in blossoms and brightly hued. These adornments bloomed on armbands, hemlines, collars, and hip pockets of tailored suiting. On other looks, feathers splayed proudly from shoulders and hemlines like a navy boatneck sheath.
Plenty of evening looks in subtle yet intricately crafted pieces in vintage inspired Deco motifs, part of the standing allure of some of Chanel evening looks. Dreamy chiffon swelled in full skirts banded with jewels, entire column dresses are mosaiced in jeweled or sequinned florals or geometric shapes. Voluminous bows were created in silky cinch-waist moments splaying out to the knees for full volume effect.
The runway closed with the traditional couture ending – an expansive ankle length frock, hemmed and arm-banded in a bridal white version of the same feathered florals.