The Foundation: Madonna Meets Sophia Loren
If Madonna circa 1980’s “Like a Virgin” had a baby with Sophia Loren, you would have the sensuous, classically Italian foundation of the Dolce & Gabbana aesthetic. They don’t just consider it an aesthetic really, but a culture. And when you start to deconstruct the collections with that in mind, the looks become less trendy, more iconic and representative of Milanese or Sicilian tradition; Catholic ritual so ingrained in the history of Italian roots; or the visuals of the landscape of the beautiful towns across the Italy.
But sometimes, they just might take things a little far. This is designer fashion, so a little poetic license is expected, but the decision is yours.
A Little Side Note
But before I get to that, let me take care of some business first. There’s no question they were “inspired by” Pierpaolo Piccioli’s coat design for Valentino from the Spring 2017 RTW collection. I see you two. But I have to admit, they elevated the hell out of it. Knock off, or elevating the trend?
The Alter Drones
On to the rest. Their latest collection was dedicated to ‘Fashion Devotion’ with the grand baroque set created in homage to the Oratorio di Santa Cita church in Palermo, Sicily – Domenico’s birthplace (and my family’s original home city). But this was no traditional devotion service. When the gilded “pearly gates” opened, drones carried out handbags, one by one.
Kind of genius to have them get their own moment in the sun, considering how many buyers go only for the bags and accessories. Using drones in fashion seems to be the growing trend, and showcasing individual pieces is probably the best use I’ve seen.
The Papal Inspirations
From there came the clothes, and the first model appeared looking for absolution through a top with the words fashion sinner written in white. The collection quickly merged to intricate Papal vestments coating in rich brocades with embroideries and beading. Then there’s the communion handbags…. Of course, there were the Dolce and Gabbana staple mini skirts in sumptuous shiny brocades that are usually the first to sell out every season that we all can’t seem to quit.
Smooth Like Butter
Then there were velvet track pants, side striped with phrases like fashion is beauty, I’m the queen of my life, l’amore é bellezza, while sweaters were embellished with crown-bearing cherubs. This was juxtaposed with sleek jacquard slim-fitted monotone suiting that was probably the most minimalist thing on the runway.
Popping It…And then going left
For the street style, D&G sent out a sporty set of wide leg athletic pants and a jersey with D&G Angels emblazoned on it, all absolutely covered in sequins. The embellishments grew from there to include pop art and old school comics, covering bomber jackets, oversized sweatshirts, pencil dresses, and even a full floor-length fur coat. And then there’s was that pair of cycling shorts with a satin crotch, because…why?
The Catholic iconography is woven heavily into the looks, as always really, with appliqués of crucifixes and cherubs, saints in a glow of gold being crowned by angels. And oh my gosh, the head wear. Gilded tiaras had gems with cherubs and crucifixes; knit beanies were bedecked with gold letters of fashion with images of cherubs, gold crowns reading “amor gignit amorem” – love begets love.
Blasphemy? Or the culture in which Domenico and Stefano live their everyday lives? Or both? At this point, I really have no idea. Sound off and tell me what you think!