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Would Oscar de la Renta recognize an Oscar de la Renta this season? Depending on the piece, perhaps not. Creative director duo Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia are setting aside the formality of the house signature fit-and-flare uniform. It’s still here, but you’re going to have to look for it through a more relaxed lens. Our culture just isn’t buying as much formal anymore, no matter how Hepburn-fabulous it looks.
Now it’s about ease, comfort, the casual lifestyle… dare I say function? (Pockets!). The designers took the collection global, inspired by their travels all around the world…which seems to be the emerging trend from this season’s runways. From India to Croatia to Marrakech to Como, Italy, the pair journeyed through far off destinations in a texture and print avalanche.
Tied sarong-style skirts and dresses hugged curves in a trend that all bodies and shapes can look equally fabulous.
Light dresses screamed “take me on holiday and bask in the sun”, all showing varying pops of skin.
Croatia made perhaps its strongest appearance in a series of sumptuous floral embroidered coats and a simple white sheath maxi with the same floral embroidery. Simply gorgeous, that is.
Breezy caftans give us exotic vacay vibes like the Jemaa el-Fnaa market square of Marrakech.
Oversized ikat prints in bright and cheery hues mark fresh silhouettes like a wrap crop top, duster jacket, and a white sleeveless dress. I guarantee I’d smile if I saw someone wearing that yellow top. How can you help but smile at that?
Knits are anything but basic, with an off-the-shoulder cashmere blend with silk fringe, a tied waist silk knit, and intarsia crochet silk. The texture is, like pretty much everything else in this collection, some major visual fodder.
And then the collection gets to where Oscar de la Renta himself loved to be. All the pretty. And there was plenty of it, albeit freshened up a bit. Waists were ruched and a few hems went high.
Sheer lace floral moments were just the beginning of the drama. Feathers ramped things up in a sexy black plunge bustier number as well as a dreamy blush high-slit chiffon dress that pretty much floated down the runway.
And fringe. There is a lot of fringe. Maybe they went a little crazy with the fringe in one of these…?? It just looks a little cabaret to me.
For the final looks, the duo took us to a champagne and black palette of shimmery, sensuous silhouettes. Definitely not the demure ODLR girl of yesteryear.
Overall, the collection is thematically a little scattered, but there are some great pieces in here. While Kim and Garcia have definitely evolved the brand to the new era of laid back and sexy, there are still some Mr. ODLR signatures that pop up, showing respect for both the designer as well as the ladies still looking for his classic charm.